The UUC Short Shift kit Installation – Addition
Our instructions were made as an addition to the UUC Motorwerkes instructions that are supplied with your Short Shift Kit (SSK). We used the original text from the UUC instructions and elborated on the difficult areas. The UUC Motorwerkes instructions can be found here, INSTRUCTIONS

Tools needed that are NOT included with the kit:
1. Snap Ring Pliers
2. Long Flat Head screwdriver.
3. Possibly a Dremel tool or equivalent
4. 24mm open-ended wrench (or adjustable wrench for height adjustment.)

To get on with it....
1. You don’t have to jack up the car right away, but it will eventually be needed. It is always important to remember that you always safely position the car on jack stand and to not work under the actually car jack.

2. We will now provide helpful pictures to the UUC Motorwerkes instructions.
UUC’s instructions state:
Removing the Shift Knob
Remove the shift knob by pulling straight up
With a firm tug. Be careful as you can punch
Yourself in the face when the knob lets go or
Punch the rear view mirror since you’re
Tugging at it so hard. I find that if you
Position yourself so that you cover the shifter
Knob like you’re covering a grenade, you’ll
Pull the knob and you just hit yourself in the
Stomach.

Disassemble the Shifter Console Area
Remove the foam padding underneath the
Shifter boot.
Pull up the rubber shifter boot with your
Fingers so that it’s just connected to the shifter
Lever.

This is a picture of the; shift knob, shift boot, and foam surrounding the shifter.

3. Disconnecting the Selector Rod from the Stock
Shifter
Remove the circlip and yellow washer that connects
The linkage arm to the bottom of the shifter lever.
I’ve found that with gloves, I can push the circlip off
with just finger pressure. If you find it really
Stubborn or rusty, using the end of a flat bladed
Screwdriver can also work. Make sure that you
Remember to remove the first yellow washer,
Otherwise, disconnecting the linkage arm from the
Shifter lever will be hard. Note that some early
Model cars do not have this washer, only one washer
Between the linkage arm and bottom of the shifter.

This picture demonstrates the selector rod removed while showing one of the two yellow washers where the con rod attaches to the bottom of the shifter. There is a clip called the “Circlip” on the end, you will need to use your snap ring pliers to place them into the holes of the circlip and push the clip up while doing so. If you do not have snap ring pliers you can try tweezers or push one end of the circlip with a small flat head screwdriver.
Here's what we used because our snap ring pliers were being used on a seperate project. We highly recommend that you use the snap ring pliers because using tweezer for this procedure is very difficult and NOT precise.

4. Removing the stock shifter from the car
From inside the car, follow the shift lever down until it enters the carrier. Locate the nylon cup
Bushing that surrounds the shifter pivot ball.
Use long needle-nose pliers to rotate the nylon cup
Bushing. Wedge the tips of the pliers into any two
Opposite slots in the bushing.
The bushing is held in place by two tabs that will slide
Out of their slots when the bushing is rotated.
Do not be concerned about damaging the nylon cup.
A replacement nylon cup has been included to
Replace the original part.
Once you can see the tabs are free, lift the shifter
Straight up.

The picture provides a close up picture of the shift in the carrier housing. While the needle nose pliers are being pushed into the bushing, twist and slightly pull.

Because you already removed the circlip from the connecting rod (step #3), and then removed the connecting rod from the shifter (step #3), you can now remove the entire shifter.

5. Installation of the ERK (for shifters that include ERK only)
There are a number of methods to install the ERK. We will be covering the one method (the hardest
One) in complete detail, as the other two methods will be very easy to explain once this harder
Method is covered.
Done underneath the car
Our first order of business is to remove the aluminum carrier from the car. In the case of the E36 M3, removal of the drive train and exhaust is not necessary. In the case of the E30 M3, removal of the exhaust is almost essential. Additional directions for the E30 M3 are found later in this manual. Therefore, you may want to determine if this method is the easiest and best for your car before you attempt this method. Most late model BMWs have a pin that holds the front of the carrier to the transmission housing. This pin is not obvious by sight; therefore, we’ve detailed the removal instructions with the carrier already removed from the car so that you can see what is involved. Now that the shifter lever is removed from the carrier, you’ll notice that the rear of the carrier (toward the back) is pointy, and slides into a sleeve. In most BMWs, this sleeve is insulated with rubber and a permanent fixture of the car. Go to the other end of the carrier (towards the front of the car) and you’ll barely see the pin. (Note: Aluminum carrier and pin have been removed from car to show detail.)

Top view of the pin Side view of the pin As this pin will not be obviously visible or accessible, you’ll have to study these directions to get an
Idea for the task at hand. You need to pry up on the pin to “unlock” it from this current, horizontal
Position. This is best done with the flat side of a screwdriver. Once you get the blade of the screwdriver under the side of the pin, you need to pry upwards to “unlock” it.
If first you don’t succeed, pry, pry again.
Once you’ve gotten the pin in a more vertical position, you may remove the pin from the carrier.
Wiggle you hand up there and pull out the pin.
Now that you’ve removed the pin, you can slide the carrier forwards and backwards to pull it out of
The car.

Get that blade under the pin


These pictures are of the carrier pin on the transmission side. We were able to pry the carrier pin out but most people use their Dremel tool to cut the pin out. If you decide to cut the pin you already know UUC provides a replacement, but it is important to cut along the red line in the top picture, remember not to cut too deep or else you will cut into the transmission.

6. Installation Directions for Delrin Carrier Bushings
Once the carrier is out of the car, you can push out the rubber grommet in the front of the carrier and replace them with the Delrin carrier bushings. The bushings slip right in on either side of the carrier arm. As the ID of the Delrin carrier bushings have been machined to a very close tolerance, it is advisable to test fit the new pin (included) through the Delrin carrier bushings. If you discover, while pushing the pin through, that it binds or stops, take a small round file to smooth the transition between the two bushings. Checking for a smooth fit before installing it in the car will save time and aggravation.

The top picture demonstrates how to cut the stock rubber bushing.
The bottom picture shows the TWO new Delrin Bushings pressing into the stock carrier housing.


7. Next, install the ERK into the carrier.
Then, using the supplied bolts and the 2.5mm Allen key, secure the ERK into the carrier. There is no need to over tighten the locating bolts, as the thread lock and snug fit of the bolts in the carrier will hold them in place. Tighten the bolts between 4 to 6 in/lbs. (NOT ft/lbs!) You know you’ve over tightened the bolts if you distort the Allen key or if you strip the threads of the ERK. Damage to the ERK due to over tightening is not considered a defect! There is no need to use a breaker bar to gain additional leverage during this installation. Once you’ve installed the ERK, time to put it back in. Follow the above instructions in reverse to reinstall the carrier. Snug up the bolts, but not gorilla tight!
Installation of the ERK
NOTE: This section applies only to '95-'99 M3, '96-'02 328, 330 models. ERK is not part of other application kits.
A simple summary of this step is not to over tighten the Allen screws. Using a little bit of Windex or a slight dab of grease to help push the nylon bushing in will also help.

8. Installing the New Shifter Lever
Reinstall the new shifter lever with the bend of the lever pointing
BACKWARDS towards the rear of the car. Using the included
Lubricant, coat the entire inside of the nylon cup. Install the nylon
Cup onto the new shifter by inserting the bottom of the shifter
Lever through the top of the nylon cup.
Line up the nylon cup so that the “tabs” of the cup are at 3 and 9
O’ clock positions (pointing towards the doors). By lining them
Up, you can push it straight down into the aluminum carrier. It
Will go in with a “snap” or a “click” indicating that it’s seated and
Locked into place. Make sure both sides are locked down in the
Carrier. After you know that they are locked into place, tug on the lever…you should not be able to
Pull the lever up.
Installation Directions for Cartridge Bearings (optional)
Remove the Delrin pivot bushings in the bottom of the shifter by removing each half of the bushing
From either side of the shifter.
Please see the detailed picture for the proper assembly of the EVO shifter onto the selector rod.
The assembly does not require grease or lubricant as sealed cartridge bearings already have the
Appropriate lubricant built into the assembly.
If the cartridge bearings are proving to be difficult to install, DO NOT FORCE THEM ON as
You may damage or break the bearings (making them useless). If they seem to be hung
Up on the very tip of the selector rod pin, you may have to use fine sandpaper or steel
Wool to smooth the end of the pin. Be sure that the selector rod pin is ABSOLUTELY free
Of any dirt, debris or corrosion. If necessary, use a new selector rod as the bearings are a
Precision fit with NO tolerance for imperfections.
Be sure that the FLAT side of the yellow washer faces the outer spacer. In the event that you
Encounter difficulty in attaching the circlip onto the selector rod pin, you may carefully file the
Outside surface of one of the outer spacers.


This is the correct position for reinstalling the selector rod. If this is installed incorrectly then between shifts the rod will rub on the GUIBO (flex disk). Remember to reinstall the yellow washers, it's best to use the new washers included with the UUC kit.

Reattaching the Selector Rod to
The New Shifter Lever
(Note: Aluminum carrier, shifter lever,
And nylon cup removed from car to
Show detail.)
Reconnect the linkage by pushing it
Through the bottom of the lever. In all
Likelihood, the inside yellow washer (if
You have one) is probably fine. If you
Do replace it, notice that the yellow
Washer has a side to it that is very flat
And a side with curved edges. Make
Sure that the flat sides are always
Towards the shifter.
For older cars, installing both yellow
Washers may not physically be possible
As it was never intended or equipped
From the factory with yellow washers
On either side of the shifter lever. If
You have to use one, install the one on
The outside, closest to the metal
Circlip.
Reinstall the circlip. Using snap ring pliers helps to start it, but I find that tapping the circlip on with
A small hammer to be a great little trick that does the job perfectly. If you find it difficult to access
This area, you may try shifting the transmission into reverse temporarily.
Adjusting Lever Height
Once you have secured the shifter lever in place of the carrier (or within the ERK), you can adjust
The height of your shift lever (if you have the height-adjustable version) to your personal tastes.
The height of the lever has been pre-adjusted from UUC Motorwerkes to its maximum height, but not
Tighten completely. You may lower the height by loosening the adjusting nut approximately two (2)
Full turns, clockwise. Adjust the height to your preference and retighten nut approximately two full
Turns counter-clockwise. Ensure that it is sufficiently tight enough by pulling upwards on the shifter
Lever.
When you need to readjust the shifter to your preference, you may be required to loosen the nut
More than two full turns, counter clockwise. Be sure that when you retighten the nut, that the
Shifter does not move under pressure.

Reinstall the boot onto the new shifter lever by pushing the top
Of the lever through the bottom of the boot. Using some
Lubricant inside the boot will make this easier. Be sure to
Apply a small amount of grease to the very bottom lip of the
Boot, too, so that it fits over the new carrier when you reinstall
It.
HOT TIP! A little soapy water also works well since it’s
Slippery at first, and when it dries, allows the rubber to grip!
Windex works really well, too!
Installing Rubber Boot
(Note: Aluminum carrier, shifter lever, and
Nylon cup removed from car to show detail.)
Using your fingers, stuff the rubber boot down
Into the car. Push it all the way in, past where
You want it to go. By doing this, you’ll be able to
Hook up the boot on top of the aluminum carrier
First. It will take a little bit of feeling around to
Make sure you’ve got it on, but you can feel it
From above the boot. After you’ve verified that
You have successfully seated the boot on the
Carrier, you can use your fingers and pull the
Boot into the car, so that it seats properly inside
The car, sealing it from the outside.
Patience…you’re almost done.
Step 11 – done inside the car
Now that you’ve reinstalled the rubber boot, you’re all set to put
Back the foam, leather boot and reinstall the knob. A firm
Pounding on the top of the knob should seat it properly. Test it to
Ensure that the knob stays on with a tug. If it comes off too
Easily, check the leather shifter boot as it may be in the way from
Allowing the shift knob from seating all the way down.
Before letting your car down off the jack stands, push the clutch in
And run through the gears. Make sure that you can engage every
Gear (reverse and 1st through 5th). When you’ve gone through the
Gears successfully, you can lower your car off the jack stands and
Go for a spin.
Congratulations! You’ve done it!